The deep, richly coloured walls of this fabric draped, subterranean New Town cavern and its friendly staff make this a welcoming and warming retreat, while regular belly dancing (Wednesday-Saturday) adds an air of the exotic. The food here is excellent, if slightly higher in price than other similar restaurants, and the starters are a great introduction to the intriguing and subtle flavours of Morocco. There's the classic bstila, aubergine marinated in spices and grilled, or briwat, filo pastry parcels filled with chicken, tasty spinach and goat's cheese. To follow, choose from lists of bubbling tagines, steaming couscous, succulent mashwi (barbequed dishes) or Walima specialities such as the chicken Walima, a whole breast of chicken marinated with cinnamon and ginger, stuffed with yet more spices and grilled over charcoal. If these options aren't sufficiently mouth-watering, then call 24 hours in advance to order either a whole stuffed chicken or a leg of lamb served with various delicious side dishes, as well as bread and salad (£29 for two, £56 for four). For dessert try the creamy Moroccan rice pudding with sultanas, apricots, almonds and cinnamon, and to finish you can blow smoke rings with a shisha (waterpipe) or simply sip mint tea.